Any help would b great. % = 49 Or alternator? I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Interesting situation you have. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). issue. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! I had this same exact issue. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. I looking for your expert opinion. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. Any suggestions? I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Only show this user . Thanks so much for reading! AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. It may take a few tries. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Reply Quote. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. $107.95. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. Thanks in advance for any advice. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. The small rubber plug had a leak. It could be a couple of things. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. :-). Do you have a PCV on the engine? Should I just disable idle timing control? Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Not that I noticed. Clearly, something is changing. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. I think you'll be all set! I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle.
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